FAQ

My boiler has an error code, F code or is flashing but not working

If your boiler displays an error code such as F22 or is flashing, you can try to reset the boiler either from the front panel controls or the fused spur that supplies the boiler power. If the problem persists you will require a visit from a registered Gas safe engineer.

Water pipes can burst from time to time. Locate your main stop cock, sometimes under the kitchen sink and turn clockwise to close. This will shut off the mains water supply.

If the pipe is still leaking, this can be residual water. If there is alot, it may be a central heating pipe in which case call an engineer as the system needs to be drained down. Alternatively it may be from the cold water storage tank or hot water cylinder, if so run the bath taps to drain the system quicker and call an engineer as may not stop completely.

Prices of boilers can vary greatly. On average the price of a straight swap like for like boiler install will range from £1500 to £3000. This is dependent on type and make of the boiler, location and system requirements such as controls, power flushing  etc. Adding cylinders tanks, radiators and converting systems can significantly add to the price. Discuss with your gas safe registered engineer what the best options may be.

There are a number of reasons why boilers lose pressure. A leak on the pipework such as at a radiator valve can cause pressure loss. Leaking components in the boiler. Often the leak may be coming from the pressure relief valve (PRV), usually this is due to the expansion vessel inside being flat. Look outside and if you see if there are water stains on the wall, if so, this indicates the PRV is leaking and you will need to call an engineer.

On some older boilers, the condense pipe freezes due to the cold weather. The condense pipe is usually a small white pipe outside approximately 22mm size. Boiling a a kettle and pouring it over the pipe (outside) sometimes fixes the issue. If you have this issue you should call an engineer as water backs up into the main heat exchanger and can cause problems. New installs are required to have a bigger diameter pipe for condense disposal to avoid this issue.

Boilers should be serviced yearly. If you have a new boiler, it will need to be done each year to validate the warranty. If the boiler is older, it is just as important as components will need to be checked and replaced if necessary for safety and efficiency.

There are a number of reasons why boilers are extra noisy. This includes issues with components inside like the pump or a blocked condense trap which backs up into the heat exchanger. If your boiler is very noisy beyond the usual call an engineer for a visit.

The size of boiler will vary based on size and type. A gas safe registered engineer will do calculations based on different factors such as how many radiators and bathrooms there are, if there is cylinder or if you will be extending the house in the near future.

New boilers today tend to last 10 to 15 years on average, but this will depend on different factors such as servicing history and condition of the boiler. Sometimes a boiler will not be that old but the cost to fix it may be economically unviable due to various parts that require replacing. Additionally, older boilers may have parts that are no longer available. 

Boilers that are pressurized require a minimum amount of pressure to operate. This means if you have a filling loop, the pressure should be around 1 bar to 1.5 bar. When you bleed radiators this releases pressure from the system. Just simply top up pressure from the filling loop but remember to turn off the filling loop as leaving it on will damage components.

There are different reasons as to why this may be. If you have a hot water cylinder it may be due to a valve or the controls not working properly. If you have a combi boiler, it may be due to the diverter valve, plate heat exchanger or the PCB. Call an engineer for a visit to diagnose.

To get a heat pump can be a big decision depending on your circumstances. There are currently two types which are air source and ground source. Ground source requires digging out large sections of your garden to lay pipes that go back to a unit in your house. The trench/pipework size usually needs to be a minimum of 2/3 of the total floor area of your house in order to work, sometimes this maybe more. Air source has a unit attached to the outside of your house that runs inside. Units will need to work in conjunction with a secondary fuel such as gas or electric. Things to consider are the flow rate and heat loss of the pipework, due to these factors in many cases the pipework and radiators will be under sized and will need to be upgraded meaning floor boards will need to come up. If these requirements are satisfied, then the heat loss of the building should be taken into account for example loft insulation, the type of walls, double cavity etc. The house will also need to be sufficiently insulted to avoid excess heat loss. A heat pump cannot just be added onto a system with the expectation of just working, many requirements need to be met in order for the unit to work properly.